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Please Note: This page is pretty outdated! I recommend to continue on newer sites:
I use GPS in the mountains and in the car for 3 years now. It
definitely makes sense if you want to make mountain-tours in unstable weather.
If you only leave the hut when the sun shines, you won't need it of course.
Below I have collected some info that would have helped me, when I started.
I don't want to copy sites like the great 'Kanadier' intro, so i just list
things here you won't find there.
You can ask if you have questions to any of these (after you have read the FAQs)
I use several cables:
Here is my text description if you just need a short reminder which pin goes where:
Wenn man das Original Garmin Datenkabel mal
anschaut sieh man: Es hat nur 3 Anschluesse, und dort wo Spannung "+" sein muesste ist nur Plastik. Es gibt auch ein Kabel zur Stromversorgung von Garmin, aber das hat dafuer keinen Datenausgang.
Also: Anstatt 2 sauteure Kabel zu kaufen die dann nicht das KABEL-ANSCHLUESSE
+-------------+ Nochmal kurz zum merken: - O I | + |
My data-directory contains 3 subdirectories:
To organize the maps on the disk, you should use a clever directory structure
and a naming scheme.
I use directories for each country and if necessary sub-regions using the
country codes menioned below.
In these dirs, all my files are agin named by the country and additional naming criteria in a special
way to make identification
and handling easier.
My naming-scheme of a Map-Image:
CC-SSSS-NNNNNN-CCCCCCC.jpg
CC | Country-Code - 2 digit (see file country-codes.txt) |
SSSS | Scale * 1000. e.g.: 0200 means: 1:200.000 and 0025 = 1:25.000 |
NNNNNN | Name/Abbreviation - max 6 digit (e.g. use licenseplate-codes if possible) |
CCC... | Comment of any length that explains what is on map (keep short) |
Examples:
The splitting of big maps and naming of the chunks is not easy,as there are many considerations necessay. When you scan a big map like the Swiss 1:300K Map, you have to split it in chunks that are big enough to allow an overview, but small enough so they can be handeled by OziExplorer.
I found out, that the handling vs. performance on an old notebook in
the car (e.g. Pentium 150) is best, when a jpeg is about 1,5-2 MBytes This means the in this example you get about 12 Maps for this
Swiss Map.
I use following naming scheme, the lines represent the borders of each map
section:
1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | |
A | A1 |
A2 |
A3 |
A4 |
B | B1 |
B2 | ... | |
C | C1 |
... | ||
D | ... |
Sorry: TEMPORARY: My current assumption : good Results with large Maps:
200dpi at 80% -> .bmp files Compress with 50-70% of jpg in Batchtool
You can capture Maps from Screen Applications like Autoroute or the German
TK50 Series.
Here are some Tips how to get good results:
Hypersnap is a Screencapture-Tool that can scroll automatically while
capturing -> ideal for large Map-Snaps (see http://www.hyperionics.com)
Guidelines: Sorry, I got this in German only today:
1. Hypersnap starten, (nicht mit "Region")
2. Im Settings Menü Capture "Auto Scroll Window" aktivieren
und Zeit fuer Refresh auf ~300ms hochstellen, sonst bricht HS frueher ab.
3. TOP50 starten, Fenster möglich groß machen
4. Mit Ctrl-Shift-W das Capture aktivieren
5. Durch Anklicken starten, das Fenster scrollt automatisch
6. Nochmaliges anklicken stoppt das scrollen
7. Bild abspeichern, am besten gleich als TIFF
The Maps from MS Autoroute are quite accurate in their positioning of objects like towns and roads even on a larger
scale map.You can take Maps from Autoroute 2001 and above by simply taking a screenshot in High Resolution (e.g. 1600x1400)'
This will result in a picture-file, ideally use .gif format (smaller!)
You can take several of these pictures and then stitch them together as long as you only *move* in the Autoroute window and don't change
the scale. (BTW: Autoroute will rearrange some Texts especially those at the border a bit with every move you make, but this is no problem,
as the roads and Towncenters stay put.)
I have tried an example with the 60km resolution to capture 4*5 panes:
In my tests I have seen, that the colums match great with each other,
but the height of the panes changes a bit the further you come to the end.
I don't yet know what the reason for this is.
After you got the final image, you must calibrate it in your PC-Tool.
The Following is an Example for OziExplorer and MS-Autoroute:
To get the coordinates from Autoroute, choose the Menue: Extras - Positionsbestimmung
-> a small window appear at the bottom which shows the coordinates.
Choose 4 towns at the corners of your picture in OziExplorer, and
type the name of the town in the Search bar of Autoroute -> this will
show the town in large scale. Take the coordinates by moving the mouse
to the town center.
e.g.: Norheim: 49.8123 / 7.8099
Now enter them in OziExplorer: The correct Setup is:
Map Datum: WGS84
Projection: UTM
Points: Degrees & Minutes
Deg .ddddddd
e.g. Lat: 49 | .8123
NOTE: The '.' is essential in the second field. During the first
calibration, the second field might not say ".dddddd" above it.
This doesn't matter, it will be put this way, when it finds the
number starting with a decimal the next time you open the
calibration window.
Now load a Track or Waypoints to check if they are displayed
in the right spot.
Many Maps don't give the Datum / Projection. I found out about some of them:
Ich hatte oefter das Problem, das ich erst im Urlaub vor Ort entsprechende Karten gefunden habe, die das Scannen gelohnt haetten. Wenn man mit dem Auto unterwegs ist, hab ich eine ungewoehnliche, wenn auch eigentlich offensichtliche Loesung gefunden:
Weil ich mein Laptop eh meist dabei habe, hab ich mir einen 12V Anschluss fuer den Ziggianzuender gebastelt .
Spaeter fiel mir dann auf, das mein Scanner den genau gleichen Stecker und auch mit 12 Volt Netzteil benutzt.
Jetzt kann ich Abends auf dem Campingplatz die frisch gekauften Karten einscannen und kalibrieren. Meist will man ja nicht die komplette Karte einscannen, sondern nur eine kleine (Wander-) Region, die man dann schon genau einschraenken kann.
Ich habe probiert eine 'Karte' aller Wege in meinem Waldstueck als 1 Track in OziExplorer eingegeben, oder z.B. Alle Skilifte in Verbier.
Solange ich es als 'ACTIVE' Track ruterlade ins GPS, sieht das auch grob so aus, wie ich es wollte. Dann muss ich aber immer rumbasteln um nachher das echte Tracklog zu bekommen.
Meine Probleme damit beginnen aber wenn ich es stattdessen als 'Saved Named Track' abspeichere, weil ich das Gebiet vielleicht erst spaeter laden will. Wenn ich dann spaeter Traceback auf diesern Track mache:
1) Wege oder besonders skilifte sind keine Endlos-Objekte -> Ich muss bei OziExplorer immer neue kleine Track-Abschnitte eingeben. Die Verbindet der eTrex dann wieder zu einem Langen wirren Netz :-(
2) Beim Traceback kann es sein, das er dann einfach eine Teilstrecke in der Anzeige weg laesst, weil er meint, man kaeme so schneller zum Ziel ? Auf jeden Fall fehlen oft einfach ganze Bereiche.
Hat jemand einen Tip fuer ?