Prepare - Himalaya Trip
Ama Dablam - only as a 'Model' for ideal Mountains, AD has too much traffic ??? - urgently looking for more, please mail if you have suggestions
=> No Trekking
=> No 8000m Peaks
=> Yes for technical climbs in moderate <7500m
Pasang Lhamu Chuli 7350m
Pasang Lhamu Chuli 7350m(Josamba Cho-Aui)
Pasang Lhamu Chuli is one of five new peaks opened for foreign expedition in June 1995.
Location of this peak is (28 04 24N,86 36 53E) about 5 Kilometer west-southwest of Cho-Oyu and height of this peak is 7350m. It was not easy for us to identity the peak of this mysterious name. Soon we learned it is nothing but a peak that has been known as Cho-Aui and already had been climbed from Tibetan side in 1986 by Himalaya Association of Japan's expedition.
In postmonsoon season of last year,a Korean expedition team tried from Nepalese side but they were forced to retreat at height of 6900m. This peak also has other two different name ;Josamba 1 and Nangpai Gosum 1.
Our expedition in 1996, sponsored by Osaka Alpine Club aimed to this peak from the south or the east ridge. On September 6th,the first flight,after irritated waiting in Kathmandu by prolonged monsoon weather of that year,brought us to Shangboche and we stayed for three days at Everest View Hotel where Mr.Miyahara is President. Then we proceeded to Thame village,where we spent more 7 days at our sirder Ang Phurba's lodge for rest and acclimatization.
Started for Chhule on September 16th, and settled basecamp(5400m) on the central moraine of Nampa La Glacier. Climbing gears and foods about 1.5 tons already had been carried up to BC by a few Sherpas and local porters prior to our arrival, As the nearest couloir, which directly lead to southern col (5720m), and Korean couloir up to 6650m col. were both washed by incessant big avlanches, we decided to change our route without hesitation to the west ridge.
We placed advanced basecamp at 5600m, near the foot of west ridge Nampa La.
Annapurna Runde ur
http://www.pizbube.ch Alle moeglichen Buecher -> Suche nach Asien / Fuehrer,Sommer "High Asia"
by Jill Neate
For 7000m peaks in the Himalaya, there is a book that describes most (if not all) of them called "" . Unfortunately, it's out of print so you'll have to check out a mountaineering library. Himalaya Alpine Style
by Andy Fanshawe & Stephen Venables
Full Title: Himalaya Alpine Style: The Most Challenging Routes on the Highest Peaks